Guinea Pig C and C Cage Information

Guinea Pig C and C Cage Information
By Amanda Toop

What is a C&C cage?

"C&C" stands for cubes and coroplast. Coroplast is actually a brand name but the product itself is basically corrugated plastic (two thin layers of plastic separated by hollow columns) and "cubes" refers to the square metal grids that one would fit together to make storage cubes (like you would see in a closet organizer system.) So, a C&C cage is essentially a custom designed guinea pigs cage using square metal grids for the walls and then the coroplast sits inside the cage to form the cage floor or bin.

What are the advantages of C&C cages?

The main reason that guinea pig owners are drawn to making their own C&C cages is primarily due to the fact that most commercially available guinea pig cages are simply too small. Ideally a lone guinea pig would have a cage of approximately 7.5 square feet, however most commercially available cages are closer to 40"L X 18"W X 20"H.

The modular nature of the metal grids allows one to create a variety of cage sizes to suit one's particular needs while the coroplast is easy to work with, lightweight, nontoxic, strong, and waterproof (meaning it will last and be easy to clean)- in fact some C&C cage owners have had coroplast liners last for five years. The simplicity of the materials also allows one to design more elaborate and customized cages with features like wheels and multiple levels.

What do I need to consider when choosing the materials for my C&C cage?

When choosing the metal grid cubes for your cage, be aware that while the cubes themselves may be a standard size, the actual grid spacing can vary between models and manufacturers. Some grid layouts will be obviously too large such as a 14in square cube that has a 5 by 5 grid layout. Other grid layouts will look deceptively small enough, such as the 8 by 8 grid layout. The danger with this size is that the grid spacing is just large enough for a determined guinea pig to partially work themselves through the bars and in some cases strangulation has occurred. If you build your own C&C cage, please make sure you select a 9 by 9 grid layout (this breaks down to 1.5in spacing) as this is the safest option.

How to Make a C&C Cage

1. 1. First you will want to decide what size of cage you want to build and then buy as many storage cubes as you think you will need.


2. 2. Once you have your selection of cubes, play around with different arrangements to see what you like best. The cubes can then be connected using the provided connectors. Keep in mind that the provided connectors are not going to be very strong so you will want to reinforce all connections with two cable ties - one at the top and one at the bottom.


3. 3.Measure the interior cage length and width. These are the measurements you are going to use to create the pattern for the coroplast interior that you will drop inside. Make sure you keep the size slightly smaller than the measurements you took so that it will fit without problem.


4. 4. Remember, the coroplast will be working as a liner and so what you want to make is an open top box. You will want a 5 or 6in lining around the sides of the cage to keep bedding, hay, and debris in. A craft knife or razor can work well for this as you can score a side enabling you to fold the material up. Each corner will need to have the length of the lining cut through - a single horizontal or vertical cut will be fine. This will allow the coroplast to conform to the shape of the corners when folded up together. Corners can be sealed with tape.


5. 5. Place coroplast box inside metal grids

And you are done!

Amanda is a lifelong guinea pig lover. For more great guinea pig information, visit http://www.guineapigresource.com

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Guinea Pig Supplies - The Basics

Guinea Pig Supplies - The Basics
By Amanda Toop

Before one brings home a new guinea pig, there are a few necessary supplies to purchase. These supplies include a carry case, cage, bedding, food dish, hay rack, water bottle or bowl, and a hiding hut.

Carry case
A simple cat carrier will do. A carry case is an invaluable tool for transporting one's guinea pig to and from the veterinarian's office. Lining the bottom of the carry case with newspaper will reduce the amount your furry friend can slide around.

Cage
The top priorities for choosing a cage include size, safety, and convenience. Many of the cages available commercially in pet stores and online are simply too small. For a single guinea pig one should consider a cage that is approximately three feet long by three feet wide. The reason for this is simply health. A larger cage is going to be more sanitary as smaller cages force your guinea pig to essentially live in a glorified litter box. A larger cage allows more area with unspoiled bedding for your guinea pig to live in. Furthermore, the larger the cage, the more one's guinea pig can move around. Exercise is vital for maximum guinea pig health. With a larger cage one can set up areas specifically for exercise and toys. This will reduce problems with weight gain and other health related issues.

When it comes to cage safety one needs to consider safe materials and construction. Look for sturdy wire that cannot be chewed through and walls that are high enough to prevent one's pet from escaping (or fully enclosed if you own other household pets) but tall enough to allow him or her to fully stand up on hind legs. Make sure that time is spent investigating proper bedding that is not dangerous or too rough on feet (avoid pine and cedar in particular.) Some owners purchase cages with wire floors thinking it is more sanitary to allow droppings to fall through a grating. Unfortunately wire floors are not safe for guinea pigs as their feet can fall through the holes resulting in injury. Instead look for a cage with a solid floor.

Finally, when choosing a cage do not forget about convenience as one will be reaching in and out of the cage multiple times per day as well as cleaning it once per week. Look for cage doors that are large enough to accommodate one's hand and a guinea pig. Look for side and top doors - side doors allow your guinea pig to come in and out while higher doors are perfect for reaching in without worrying one's guinea pig will escape. Look for cages with removable bottom trays as it makes cleaning and maintenance easier.

Hiding Hut
In the wild guinea pigs as prey animals would have hidden underground in burrows. Providing a similar hiding space in the cage is necessary in order to provide a sense of safety and security for one's furry friend. A simple over turned wooden box with an entrance hole will work just fine. Or one can go to a pet store and pick out a commercially made box. PVC pipes are also fun and effective - especially when one makes use of different joints. Just make sure that whatever is chosen is not chewable as a guinea pig will quickly chew a cardboard box up.

Food Dish
A food dish made out of a heavy material such as clay or ceramics is best. One wants to choose a dish that is too heavy to be knocked over all the time and sturdy enough that it cannot be chewed up. Make sure the dish is not so high that one's guinea pig cannot comfortably reach in to eat.

Water Bottle
Look for gravity style water bottles as these are difficult to knock over and keep the water clean of debris. Do not buy a bottle that is too small - eight ounces or larger should be perfect. Finally, check for a bottle with a metal ball in the tip as this will prevent leaking.

Hay Rack
Guinea pigs require hay in their diet for ideal health. A hay rack will attach to the upper side of the cage and allow one's furry friend to pull single strands of hay out for consumption. Hay racks prevent hay from becoming distributed all over one's pet's cage.

Amanda is a lifelong guinea pig lover. For more great guinea pig information, visit http://guineapigresource.com/guinea-pig-bedding-and-supplies/.

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Guinea Pig Bedding - Separating the Safe From the Dangerous

Guinea Pig Bedding - Separating the Safe From the Dangerous
By Amanda Toop

Guinea pigs can be largely low maintenance pets provided one takes the time to learn a little guinea pig care. Many people do not take the time to learn what types of bedding are harmful and this oversight can hurt the health of your guinea pig. When choosing bedding also consider the material's ability to absorb, control odor, be easily handled and cleaned, as well as cost, and availability. While it is impossible to find bedding that is absolutely perfect, a combination of bedding can actually work out quite well.

Bedding that must be avoided:

Cedar shavings - are poisonous to guinea pigs due to the fact that they contain phenols which are caustic compounds. It is the effect of caustic compounds on the respiratory system after being breathed in day in and day out that causes most concern. Some also argue that this can cause the kidneys and liver to become strained as those organs are responsible for filtering out toxins.

Corn cob - Corn cob is frequently recommended as it can be an organic, natural product. What is frequently not considered is the fact that corn cob has a tendency to mold. Corn cob is also indigestible if consumed (and your guinea pig will more than likely consume.)

Pine shavings - Pine shavings are considered by many to be toxic as well. Unlike cedar however there is some controversy in that some experts feel the risk is lowered when used in a well ventilated area. The decision is yours to make but many people choose not to take the risk.

Straw -Straw can cause injuries as it is too rough. Straw is also not recommended as it lacks proper absorbency and odor control.

Wood pellets - Wood pellets are not necessarily a great choice as the material can contain additives such as flame accelerants, is extremely heavy (remember how much you need to buy as you will be cleaning the cage once per week), breaks down into sawdust when wet, and are too hard for one's guinea pig to run across with comfort.

Recommended Bedding: CareFRESH -CareFRESH is made from wood pulp that cannot be made into paper. The leftover wood pulp is sanitized to kill bacteria, mold and fungus, does not contain additives, and resembles shredded egg cartons.

Crown Pellet - Made from recycled newspaper compressed into pellets. Like wood pellets, crown pellet bedding can be quite heavy and hard, but in general is still well liked due to the fact that it is so absorbent, controls odor and lasts a long time. Due to its texture, layering softer bedding on top is recommended.

Timothy Hay - Timothy is widely recommended as guinea pig bedding due to the fact that it's a soft, natural product that has a nice scent. Timothy hay is also safe to eat and guinea pigs love building tunnels in the hay. While possibly hard to get in some areas, look in farm supply stores, gardening centers, and online.

Amanda is a lifelong guinea pig lover. For more great guinea pig bedding information, visit http://www.guineapigresource.com/guinea-pig-bedding-and-supplies/

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Creating an Ideal Guinea Pig Home

Creating an Ideal Guinea Pig Home
By Amanda Toop

Cage Location

One of the first decisions you will need to make before you bring your new guinea pig home is - do you want him or her to live inside or outside? While the outdoor option may seem more convenient consider a these factors first - if your pet lives outdoors, the two of you may not form as tight of a bond unless you make the extra effort. A lot of what people find enjoyable about guinea pig ownership is simply the shared companionship - sitting together, watching your furry friend play with toys in his cage, etc. Outdoor pets also do not have as long of a lifespan due to increased exposure to extreme weather conditions and neighborhood predators. Finally, if you are not regularly monitoring your furry friend, days can go by before you realize he or she is ill. This could be potentially life threatening if your guinea pig has contracted a rapidly developing illness. For the reasons above, we recommend keeping your pet indoors.

The greatest consideration when locating your guinea pig cage in your home is selecting a spot that will remain at an ideal temperature for your pet. Avoid close proximity to direct sunlight and other heating elements such as radiators and stoves. Extreme cold is also deadly so avoid cage placement near doors, windows, or directly on the floor as this is likely to be drafty. Avoid areas that are dark and damp - this includes basements and garages (especially because of car exhaust fumes.) Finally, avoid any location that is very noisy as guinea pigs have very sharp hearing. This would include televisions and stereo systems. The ideal spot will be somewhere in the center of your home where he or she can watch household activity. Any area where people are interacting should be fine - just not an area that is so busy that your new companion becomes stressed due to a lack of rest.

Cage Basics

Look for cages with removable bottom trays and sturdy wire. Sturdy wire will not be vulnerable to gnawing and will provide excellent access to ventilation and light. A removable bottom tray will make the task of cleaning much easier. Make sure the cage floor is either hard plastic or some kind of non-rusting metal. If your cage is all wire, you will need to add a wood floored area (any wood but toxic redwood.) Mesh and wire cage floors are going to be very uncomfortable and not entirely safe for your guinea pig as his leg can get caught in the gaps and the wire will make his feet sore. The cage you select should also be easy to take apart as you will need to clean it once per week. Make sure the cage comes with an opening on top so you can easily reach in without your guinea pig running out. A side door is also an excellent option for when you want to let your guinea pig out to play.

Many so-called experts recommend cages that are simply too small to ensure the maximum health and happiness of your guinea pig. The most common recommendation is that you find a cage big enough to accommodate your guinea pig, his food, water, nest box, and toys. The cage should be large enough that your pet cannot reach the top. Unfortunately this information is too vague and can result in an owner buying a cage that is too small. Other "experts" recommend 2.5 square feet per guinea pig. This is also inadequate. We strongly recommend 7.5 square feet for one, or 10.5 square feet for two. Remember, the more exercise and space your guinea pig has the healthier he will be. This will ultimately save you the stress and financial burden of a sick guinea pig later on.

Amanda is a lifelong guinea pig lover. For more great tips on bringing guinea pigs home, visit http://guineapigresource.com/bringing-your-guinea-pig-home/

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